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Lush & Tuff  House/Boot Socks
Countrywool © 2010
(March 1 edits noted in blue)

knit from the toe up on one circular needle with a short row heel


59 spring road * hudson * ny * 12534
(518) 828-4554
on the web: www.countrywool.com

Need seriously warm socks for arctic living? These angora and wool stranded socks are “tuff” enough to stand up to floor wear, or will fit nicely into oversized boots for outdoor winter activities.  Want a tighter fit for serious wool clog wearing? Make one size smaller than indicated, but lengthen the feet and legs to the size you actually measure. Because of the nature of stranded knitting, the legs are larger than the feet to allow for easier wearing,
and the short row heel is proportioned larger.

Sizes: S (1-4 years), M (6-12 years), Teen, Adult small, Adult medium, Adult L, Adult XL, Adult XXL
To fit foot measurement around (lengths are adjustable):
5, 6, 7, 8 (8 ¾, 9 ½, 11 ½, 12 ¼)”

Materials:
1, 1, 1, 1, (1, 1, 2, 2) - 4oz skein(s) TUFFY
heavy worsted weight wool/nylon   (215 yards)

1, 1, 1, 1, (1, 1, 2, 2) – 50 gram skein(s) LUSH  
worsted weight angora/wool      (124 yards)

1 40” Addi Turbo circular needle size 6 (or size needed to achieve gauge below)

3 Clip Markers

Darning Needle

Gauge: 4 ½  stitches = 1” on size 6 needles in stranded knitting
 
KEY
BOR = Beginning Of Round                 
INC L = Lifted Increase Left = lifted increase that leans to the left: knit into the back of the left side of the stitch of 2 rows below stitch on the right needle              
INC R = Lifted Increase Right = lifted increase that leans to the right: knit into the back of the right side of the stitch of the row below stitch on left needle
INVISIBLY ATTACH YARN = thread eye of darning needle with yarn. Sew into the base of the last stitch worked, and continue to sew for 2” in three different directions,
    creating a “Z” shape on the inside of the fabric. Cut end flush with surface.
JENY’S BIND-OFF = work a yarn over before each stitch and then bind off in the normal manner =  
[*Yarn-over in reverse, K1, pull YO over K1 and off the needle*, repeat from * to *, then pull 2nd stitch over first stitch and off the needle]. Repeat from [   to   ] around.
K2TOG = Knit 2 stitches together as one (one stitch decreased)
K = Knit
LM = Left Marker            
PM = Place Marker
P = Purl
SRW =  work stitches in pattern until the required number of stitches are left unworked on your needle: slip next stitch, bring BOTH STRANDS of working yarn through
    needles to opposite side of work, slip stitch  back to left hand needle, put working yarns back to where they started. Turn work, leaving unworked stitches    
    untouched.                           
SSK = Slip 1st stitch as if to knit, slip 2nd stitch as if to purl, put point of left needle into fronts of both slipped stitches and knit together (one stitch decreased)

TOE:
With # 6 needle and Tuffy, in Judy’s Magic Cast On style (see below), cast on
4+4,  4+4,  4+4,  8+ 8, (8+8, 8+8, 8+8, 8+8) stitches .

Judy’s Magic Cast On: using a 40” circular needle, make a slip knot (leaving 24” tail) on one needle. Hold both needle ends together in your right hand, points to the left, one needle in front (bottom) of the other, the needle with the slip knot at the back (top).  The slip knot counts as one stitch. With your left hand, slide knot to the right and with both yarns held in left hand, one over your thumb (yarn from ball), and one over your forefinger (tail yarn) begin winding yarns around each needle to create stitches, working towards the points in a figure 8 pattern as follows:
    *Forefinger yarn: from under, towards you, to over front needle, and back down in between both needles
    Thumb yarn: from under, away from you, to over back needle and back down in between both needles*
    »Wind the number of stitches you need, repeating the directions above from * to *     
    remembering you have started with one stitch already on the back needle.
    »Turn both needles to face the right, with the former front needle becoming the back one.
    »Set up round: slide the front point out past the stitches on it (moving the stitches onto the cable part of the needle) to have 12”of needle/cable to work with. Position tail yarn behind         yarn from ball. With the right point, knit across the stitches of the back point, then turn your work 180*.  Slide the stitches on the cable onto the new back needle point, and slide the         front needle point out past the stitches on it to have 12” of needle/cable to work with, and knit across the stitches of the back needle, observing that they are reverse mounted on the         needle, and you will need to work into the right half of the stitch which presents itself around the back of the needle THIS TIME PAST ONLY. Turn your work 180*. Place BOR             (Beginning Of Round) marker.

       Knitting proceeds as follows:        
Work from * to * (below) across back needle, the work is turned, and then is worked across the new back needle:
*Slide the stitches on the cable onto the new back needle point, and slide the front needle point out past the stitches on it to   have 12” of needle/cable to work with, and knit across the stitches of the back needle. Turn your work 180*.

» Round 1 and 3 (join LUSH and start SEEDED COLOR PATTERN while increasing:
      first round: work 1 stitch Tuffy, work 1 stitch Lush each round thereafter: work Tuffy on Lush color, and Lush on Tuffy as presented.
     (on the first increase round ONLY, work increases into the “ears” of the cast on row to round it out)
     *INC R in each of 1st two stitches, knit to before last stitch, INC L in each of last 2 stitches*
      Repeat from * to * for next needle: 8 stitches total increased

» Round 2 and all Even Rounds:  Knit evenly across all stitches on both needles
     After Round 2 is first worked, fold work so toe points down with needles/stitches above. In this position, knitting commences with the opposite needle points as follows;
     the BACK needle point is pulled out 12” and the stitches are worked across the FRONT needle. Knitting will continue in this manner for the rest of the sock.

» Round 5 and all subsequent Odd Rounds
    INC ROUND: *K1, INC R in next stitch, knit to before last stitch, INC L in previous stitch, K1*  
    Repeat from * to * for next needle: 4 stitches total increased

Work toe as noted, increasing to 12, 14, 16, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on each needle point, or 24, 28, 32, 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) stitches total around.   
Continue working evenly in SEEDED COLOR PATTERN until toe measures
1 ½, 2, 2 ½, 2 ½ (2 ¾, 2 ¾, 3 ¼, 3 ¼)” from cast on round.

FOOT:
Knit evenly around in GULL PATTERN STITCH until foot measures
4, 4 ¼, 5, 6 ½, (7 ¾, 8 ¾, 8 ¾, 9 ¾)” or 1 ½, 2, 2 ½, 2 ½ (2 ¾, 2 ¾, 3 ¼, 3 ¼)” before desired foot length, ending after a chart row 2.
  Connect LUSH “floats” after no more than 2 stitches to keep them flatter within the sock.

 

SHORT ROW HEEL:   Move BOR marker back 2 stitches. Counting from this point, place a clip for LM after stitch 12, 16, 20, 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) to mark heel stitches. You will be making the heel working back and forth using short rows in Seeded Color Pattern (as for toe). All short row wraps are worked with BOTH yarns. 
Row 1: Increase 2 stitches at the beginning and 2 stitches at the end IN PATTERN with INC R: total on heel needle after first row: 16, 20, 24, 24 (28, 28, 32, 32) stitches.
K across to before last stitch before LM, SRW the last stitch and turn to work back.

Row 2: P across to before last stitch before BOR marker, SRW the last stitch and turn to work back.
Row 3: K across to 2 stitches before LM, SRW the next stitch and turn to work back.
Row 4: P across to 2 stitches before BOR marker, SRW the next stitch and turn to work back.
Continue as above, increasing underlined number by one each set of rows, until there are
5, 6, 8, 8 (9, 9, 10, 10) stitches wrapped at either side of the heel stitches,
and 6, 6, 8, 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) stitches left unwrapped at the center of the heel stitches.
Make sure the last row worked is a P row.

TURNING POINT OF HEEL:
Round 1: Turn and knit across next center heel 6, 6, 8, 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) stitches,
Place a HM (heel marker) on the next stitch and continue knitting to the end of the heel stitches, working across the stitches that have wraps on them, until you arrive at the LM.
NOTE:  pick up the wrap along with the stitch it is on and knit through both together.
Knit across the (previously left resting) foot instep stitches in GULL PATTERN STITCH until you arrive at the BOR marker.
Knit across heel stitches in SEEDED COLOR PATTERN until you come to HM; (the first few will have wraps on them, so remember:  pick up the wrap along with the stitch it is on and knit through both together
Round 2: Knit all 28, 32, 36, 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches in pattern around and back to before HM.

REVERSE HEEL SHAPING:   SRW at next stitch, turn:
Row 1: P 6, 6, 8, 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) (center heel) stitches, SRW, turn (TN).
NOTE:  pick up the wrap along with the stitch it is on and knit through both together.
Row 2: K 7, 7, 9, 9 (11, 11, 13, 13) stitches, SRW, TN.
Row 3: P 8, 8, 10, 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches, SRW, TN.
Row 4: K 9, 9, 11, 11 (13, 13, 15, 15) stitches, SRW, TN.  
Continue in this manner, working across one stitch more each row until the row
P 14, 18, 22, 22 (26, 26, 30, 30), SRW, turn, has been completed.  
You are now at the BOR marker.

LEG: Knit evenly around in GULL PATTERN STITCH until sock measures 4, 5, 6, 7 (9, 10, 11, 12)” from bottom of heel, ending after a Round 3 or 4. Break off LUSH yarn.

TOP RIB AND ROLL FINISH:
          Reducing 4 stitches evenly on first round, work 4 rounds *K1, P1* rib, followed by 2 rounds knit. Bind off with JENY’S BIND OFF.

Make 2nd sock!